Ann Vinciguerra: The A-List Eats - Rediscovering Storm Castle Café

One of Bozeman’s best and most authentic comfort food restaurants, Storm Castle Café, is tucked in a low-slung strip mall home to a doughnut shop, Mellow Mood tobacco, and a laundromat. Since 2010, the husband-and-wife team of Scott Peterson and Nicole Warner have been dishing up hearty eats from their unassuming Tai Lane location across from the MSU campus.

With excellent food and service, reasonable prices, and a casual setting, it is a welcome change from the Anywhere U.S.A. feel that is starting to predominate many "New Bozeman" establishments. I seldom go out for lunch during the work week, but I did once over the holidays. I had only been to Storm Castle one time about 10+ years ago and couldn’t remember much about the food or the setting. I am glad I checked it out again. Here's what I found.

Keeping Old Bozeman Alive

Storm Castle Café is bustling when I arrive. From the small, crowded entryway I pop my head into the restaurant. At first glance, the words rustic, homey, and authentic come to mind. The ambience screams "Old Bozeman," and I am immediately drawn in. The guy at the front of the line says he’s been waiting for half an hour but lucky for me I’m dining solo, and the waitress immediately ushers me to a corner seat at the bar.

Storm Castle is in the throes of its lunch rush. The hustling staff exudes a sense of knowing what they’re doing and wear the uniform of Bozeman of yore when casual ruled. The middle-aged waitress/hostess, in jeans, a blouse, and sensible sneakers, keeps the line moving and waits on her tables, giving a sense of leadership and efficiency. Young waitresses and a scruffy-bearded male server donned in Carhartt's, a t-shirt, and a chunky winter hat follow her lead. Man buns, designer jeans, and tangerine cashmere sweaters (I’m looking at you, Jam.) are nowhere to be found.

Waitstaff are pleasant but do not engage in unnecessary chitchat (“Hi! My name’s Suzi, and I’ll be takin’ care of you.” “So, do you have any fun plans today?”) and know the perfect amount of fussing (Not too much) adding to the sense of competency. I am given water right away, and my order is taken shortly after I set my menu down. From my perch in the bar, I take in the scene as I wait for my food.

A curated playlist of Hayes Carll, John Prine, and other Americana tunes waft through the speakers. A random assortment of tchotchkes is on display and casual framed photos and paintings that would be at home in a backroads motor lodge line the walls. Mounted elk antlers hang on one wall and stamped tin chandeliers dangle over the bar. Peterson’s H-4 certificate from 1984 is in with the décor, adding a nice personal touch.

Seating is in elevated booths in the bar area and at an assortment of tables, some with brown chunky brown armchairs that scream 1970s homestyle restaurant. The front window is set against faux brick walk wall and is covered by a white gauze curtain with a ruffled top that recalls one’s grandmother’s house.

Between the music, the furniture, and the décor, Storm Castle exudes a vibe that is casual, homey, and Western. The owners have put thought into creating this space, which is not hokey, overdone, or dated, and the mixing of styles blends nicely.

The young men seated next to me oooh and aaah as behemoth meals are placed in front of them. My curiosity is piqued so I ask about the food. The massive sandwich is the Monte Cristo, the dish Storm Castle is famous for. Monte Cristo sandwiches are always a multi-tiered affair, and this one is heaped high with shaved ham, cheese, and French toast that is dipped in pancake-batter and deep-fried. The other meal, the G.O.A.T French Toast, features colossal chunks of vanilla custard-dipped French toast. Both meals came with eggs and hash browns.

My burger and fries arrive next, and the hearty 8-ounce patty is slightly charred on the outside yet tender and uniformly pink on the inside, the epitome of medium rare. A few dots of juice seep into the bun, the tomatoes are chunky, and the lettuce is crisp. One bite is all it takes to realize I have found hamburger perfection. If I weren’t dining solo, I’d be raving to my dining companion about my meal. I am certain this is the best burger-and-fries combo in Bozeman.

Soon my awesome meal and leisurely lunch break is coming to an end, and I sadly must return to work. I am so smitten with Storm Castle that I ask the waitress about my meal and the café. She speaks enthusiastically and knowledgeably as she tells Storm Castle’s story. Yes, the fries are hand cut, and

yes, the meat is local. Three generations of the Peterson family run Hilltop 7 Farm, allowing Storm Castle to stay true to their claim “We are the farm and the table.” Peterson is culinary school trained and Warner has extensive front-of-the-house restaurant experience. They have created an authentic café with excellent food, and their expertise shows.

I’m glad Storm Castle is in this location, which the unadventurous may consider out of the way. It is not downtown or in either of Bozeman’s new restaurant hubs (Cannery, Ferguson Farm) so visitors are unlikely to stumble upon it, and the exterior isn’t going to grab their attention if they find it. In a Bozeman that is becoming more expensive, pretentious, and buffed to a monotonous sameness, Storm Castle is a refreshing change. It is nice that something as simple and time-honored as hearty comfort food can be done so well.

If You Go...

• Find Them At – 5 Tai Lane across from the MSU campus. They’re currently open 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. https://www.stormcastlecafe.com/

• What We Know – After graduating from MSU, Peterson attended the New England Culinary Institute and worked at restaurants in France, San Diego, and Bucks T-4 in Big Sky. In 2001, he remodeled the Winchester Cafe in Livingston’s Murray Hotel and opened Peterson’s Spirits & Eatery. The restaurant was sold in 2004, and in 2008, Peterson and Warner started a catering business leasing out of Castle Rock café in Gallatin Canyon. They soon took over the restaurant and in 2010, moved it to Bozeman. Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives visited Storm Castle in 2018 calling the Monte Cristo a “destination dish.” Online reviews are plentiful and largely positive.

• Try It If ... you’re looking for filling comfort food made to perfection in a casual, welcoming atmosphere.

• Portion Size and Price Point – Healthy portions at a fair price.

• What's on the menu? All day breakfast, an assortment of sandwiches, burgers, and other hearty comfort dishes. The bar serves beer and adult milkshakes.

o Omelets - $15-18
o Enchiladas -$16
o Meatloaf sandwich - $20
o Burgers - $15 for an 8-ounce burger and hand-cut fries. Specialty burgers range from $18 to $20, and a double burger is $26.

• The Verdict – The A-List gives Storm Castle 5-stars.