Polizzi Generosa and the Madonie Mountains, Sicily 2025

Polizzi Generosa and the Madonie mountains deserve a more evocative write-up but many months have past since our trip, so I want to get words down on the page before more time passes.

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Family Connections

In 1893, my great-grandparents came to the United States from Polizzi Generosa, a small town in Sicily’s Madonie mountains. My skeptical nature makes me hesitant to embrace tidy narratives about inherited memory and mystical connections to ancestral places, and the idea that a town my family left over 130 years ago might somehow explain who I am feels a little too New Age-y for my taste. I wasn’t born in the mountains, but I’ve lived in the Northern Rocky mountains for more than thirty years. So, when I learned that my ancestors came from a mountainous landscape, it was hard not to be intrigued.

My grandmother was born a decade after my great-grandparents arrived in the U.S. A late-in-life baby, she was the youngest of five children and the only one born in America. As a result, I never heard of Polizzi Generosa during my childhood.

Many years later I learned of my family’s connection to the town when my uncle told me about the book "Many Beautiful Things: Stories and Recipes from Polizzi Generosa," a memoir/cookbook lovingly written by American character actor Vincent Schiavelli (Ghost, One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, Fast Times at Ridgemont High) His grandparents came from Polizzi Generosa, and he eventually called it home as well.

Over the years, Polizzi Generosa kept popping up. It is the first town mentioned in Theresa Maggio’s book "The Stone Boudoir: Travels Through the Hidden Villages of Sicily." Domineco Dolce (Luxury fashion brand Dolce and Gabbana) was born here and American filmmaker Martin Scorsese’s grandparents hailed from here as well.

With these connections and a name like Polizzi Generosa, it’s hard not to feel drawn to a place that has inspired artists, storytellers, and dreamers. As Mike and I planned our trip to Sicily, we knew this would be part of our journey.

What's In a Name

Polizzi Generosa can trace its modern development to the Norman conquest of Sicily in 1076, but its story begins even earlier with archaeological findings suggesting origins in the fourth century BC. 

The name likely derives from the Greek polis or city, and the title Generosa was added by Frederick II in 1234. It is rumored that this was in recognition of Polizzi’s loyalty and generosity as the town supplied him with more arms, men, horses, and grain than even Palermo.

Over the centuries, Polizzi Generosa has been ruled by many including the Greeks, Arabs, and Normans, and each group left its mark on Polizzi's cuisine, architecture, and culture.

15th century aqueduct

Atmospheric passageway

Lingering in the Mists

Perched on a bluff 917 meters above sea level (3,008 feet), Polizzi Generosa is about 10km from Madonie Mountains, and under two hours from the coast. 

On east and west ends of the town are viewpoints overlooking the mountains, valleys, and farms far below. You can walk between these panoramas in about 10-15 minutes. The spacious western viewpoint is closer to the town's center and is a great place to watch the sunset and moody mists that regularly settle here.

 

The remains of the medieval castle are found on a hillside above town, while churches, noble palaces, and Baroque facades line the narrow streets, and endless stones cover the buildings. Polizzi is also home to numerous churches including several from 11th through 15th centuries.

We arrived in late May and enjoyed three days of perfect late spring weather - cool and crisp in the mornings and evenings, warm but far from hot throughout the day, and minimal rain. Polizzi's burgeoning tourist season had not kicked in yet the town saw a steady stream of locals and visitors. 

In the Madonie Mountains

Our days were spent exploring the nearby Madonie Mountains, an area filled with limestone, ancient beech forests, hiking trails, and more.

One of the highlights of our time in the mountains was summiting Pizzo Carbonara, the highest peak in the area and second highest in Sicily at 1,979 meters above sea level (6,493 feet).

The summit view gave us views of the snowy west side of Mt. Enta and Tyrrhenian Sea near Cefalù. While we shared the mountain top with a smattering of people speaking numerous languages, it was not mobbed and it was nice to see others out enjoying the mountains.

Near by Piano Battaglia sits at 1,605 meters above sea level and is home to two mountain huts, chalets that would be at home in the Alps, and a small ski area (We could see it from the summit), something we were surprised to find on this Mediterranean island. Also interesting was learning more about La Via dei Frati” (The Way of the Friars) is a 166-kilometer (103 mile) trail traveling from Caltanissetta in central Sicily to Cefalù on the coast. The trail passes through Polizzi Generosa and the Madonie mountains, and each day in Polizzi we spoke with people doing the thru-hike. This link provides a first-hand account of the trek.

Final Thoughts

After three days in the area my skepticism remained, and I didn't feel a magical connection to the area or experience an "I've come home" moment, but I would like to return one day; hopefully to walk the Way of the Friars, do some family reach at the Polizzi Generosa town hall, and explore more of the mountains.

While Polizzi doesn't make any of Sicily's top-ten lists, it's quiet charm, winding narrow passageways, and natural environment make it worth a stop on a trip to Sicily, especially for mountain lovers who enjoy exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations. 

Although my Vinciguerra relatives are from the Campania area of Italy, we found this street on our first morning in Polizzi Generosa. Notice the hat. It was that chilly!

For a list of all Sicily posts, click here.