During a long run this morning I found my thoughts drifting to the city of Prague. Still thinking about it upon my return, I took a few moments to jot down these recollections of my first visit there in 2000. This is a work in progress. Early December 2000 - The five hour trip from Vienna to Prague started with hope for an idyllic train experience; nice scenery. good people watching, thought-provoking conversation with strangers. But the reality turned out as many train trips do with sleepy suburbs, gritty industrial towns and dull gray skies. My seat mates, due to the desire to be left along or to the language barrier, offer little more than a few pleasantries.
The sky dimmed early in the short days of early December, and I arrive din Prague at twilight. I got off at the right train station, always a concern the first time I visit a new city, and I found the subway station no problem.
It had been 11 years since communism was forced out of what was them Czechoslovakia. Enough time for Prague to start healing but not enough time to embrace a new way of being and become the big tourist destination it is today. Guidebooks still talked of people getting gassed on overnight trains and visitors getting grossly ripped off with restaurant menu scams.Prague's remaining grit was one of the things that drew me there. Not dread, not real worry, but concern over being a solo young woman in a city My backpack, although not bursting, marked me as a tourist. Both reminded me to be diligent as I found my way.
After navigating the bustle of the subway, I emerged onto the streets of Prague, confused for a bit as I fumbled to understand the feeble map in my guidebook. It was fully dark now, streets and alleyways winded haphazardly, signs in a language bursting with consonants took concentration to match with the names on the map. But I figured out out. Knowing I was heading the the right direction I settled into my walk to my lodging to meet my friend Tony.Tall baroque buildings, cobbled squares, interesting alleyways jutting off like spokes. A sense of wonder and urban vibrancy filled me. Remaining Communist grit of Prague could still be seen here and there. Patches of graffiti, and handwritten signs on sandwich boards advertised meals that forced me do the currency conversion in my head a few times before accepting that prices in Prague were really that inexpensive. Not third-world cheap but inexpensive enough to notice.
The darkness, which at first was unsettling, soon delighted. The cold of winter. The coziness of being dressed for it. Lights of buildings and old black street lamps hearken to another time. The fabled Charles Bridge over the Vltava came into view, it's numerous statues silhouetted. The castle perched on the hill was light up and regal. What American isn't enchanted by a castle?
Although I didn't realize it at the time, those first few moments on the streets of Prague were all it took. My love affair with Prague and the Wild East had begun.
~
Another post about the Wild East:
No comments:
Post a Comment