Over the years I have come to revel in walking inn-to-inn. Although the experience isn’t as remote, wild, or free of people as backpacking, arriving at a destination on foot is still very satisfying. I have come to appreciate the convenience of carrying a smaller pack and having lodging and town services waiting for me at the end of the day.
For our most recent trip abroad, Mike and I spent 14 days in Ireland including six days walking along the Wicklow Way. The outing offered the chance to explore a new country and the slower pace of travel allowed us to become fully immersed in a landscape different from home. In addition to the territory we discovered along the trail, our daily arrival gave us a chance to explore another new place whether it be a town or just a small inn.
While many Wicklow Way trekkers go the self-guided route (A guide company books your accommodations, transports your bag, and provides support), Mike and I carried our bags and made reservations on our own. Below is a description of our walk and advice on logistics. While we walked more or less to our destination each day, there were still logistics to workout.
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| Marley Park, Dublin |
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The Wicklow Way is an 80-mile/130 KM seven-day walk from Clonegal to Marley Park in the outskirts of Dublin. Despite its proximity to the city (The southern terminus is 71 miles/116 KM from Dublin via road), you will go long stretches with cows, sheep, and occasional wildlife as your only company.
Six Days on the Wicklow Way
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The route offers scenic and varied landscape - farmland, rolling hills, mountains, lakes, bogs, and verdant forests. Travel paths vary as well – boulder strewn trails, logging roads, country lanes, and some road walking. The Wicklow Way offers a lot for the keen walker.
Mike and I used the Cicerone guide “Walking the Wicklow Way.” While the book is helpful, you will still need detailed maps. Ordnance Survey has three maps that cover the trail, which can be purchased in a bundle.
The book lists the hike from north to south, but we did it the opposite direction as there is no train at the southern terminus in Clonegal. As you'll see from our description, we started in Tinahely, about 12 miles by road from the southern terminus, and took the alternate route the first day. The six-day walk covered 67 miles including off-route walking. Unless you’re a purist and must do every bit of the Wicklow Way, the alternate routes (Including the Miners' Way on described on day three) are worthwhile.
From town, we started out on a cool morning that was perfect for walking. The landscape rose immediately, and we soon had splendid views of Tinahely, and our eyes were pleased with a landscape of rolling terrain and charming farms.
Ballycumber Hill was the highest point of our walk, and the landscape was filled with ferns, mossy trees, and dense dark forests that looked like the kind of place a gnome or some other small, fabled creature would call home. Along this part of the trail, we got really close to some wind turbines, and it was cool to see them up close. Their arms spun in a steady mesmerizing arch and a few times the wind picked up and we could hear a faint whoosh as the blades whirled.
Cows, sheep, two deer, and a fox were our only company. The Kyle Farmhouse was a wonderful spot to call home for the night. Our host offered us tea and scones when we first arrived and before we could settle into a welcoming spot on the patio, it started to rain, so we moved inside to a fire and a cozy living room.
We were the only guests at the farmhouse and were able to nap on the couch and chat with our hosts (“So, will the United States elect Mr. Trump?” was a big concern of theirs.) This was the most welcoming and tranquil place we stayed during our entire trip. Between our gracious hosts, the perfectly cool weather, and an environment different from home, our first day on the Wicklow Way was a delight.
Another cool and perfect day with only a few splashes of rain. This was the first of two 14-mile outings. With 2,400 feet/732 meters of elevation gain it felt like a “real” day.
We started on quaint farm lanes passing lots of cows and sheep. The scenery was marred with several clearcuts, and some time was spent on dull logging roads, but it was still nice to be out getting exercise, reveling in the time off work, and exploring a new country. It was a quiet day and we only saw one hiker.
This was a short day but the best day of our walk. We headed out in the steadily falling mist. The paved road quickly turned into a forest road where we came across more logged areas. Despite this mess, the area offered stunning views into another valley where unlogged terrain rose steadily, and a long waterfall cascaded down. Occasional sun illuminated the hillside a stunning combination of green, rust, and gold.
Up we went past more logged areas, through some bogs with boardwalks to keep our feet dry, and more dark dense forests like the ones we found on previous days. We shared the first part of the day with feral goats, deer, and sheep. At the divide above the Glendalough Valley we saw the first people of the day. From here, we looked towards the valley’s two fabled lakes. Rather than going towards them, we branched off the Wicklow Way and headed up the boardwalk-lined boggy slopes of the Miners’ Way.
After exploring the monastic city, we headed out. Another splendid day weather-wise despite some steady mist. Wide paths through the dark forest, some short stretches of logging roads, nice views of the countryside, quiet rural lanes. Sheep, stone walls, views to Lough Dam, a glimpse of the sea over by the resort town of Bray. A pleasant day. The inn was a nice peaceful place to rest for the night.
Mike and I retraced out steps on the quiet country road back to the Wicklow Way. We soon headed into a lovely forest with two nice viewpoints to a lake, farmlands, and the sea. After the second viewpoint, we found ourselves in bog country. As we rose higher, the sky turned cloudy, the winds picked up, and we spent the next hour in constant wind. At times the gusts threatened to push us off the boardwalk into the bog. Luckily, we managed to stay upright and dry. As we approached Djouce Mountain, persistent roars continued so we decided to skip the summit, which would have been an easy jaunt off the main trail.
Our last day began with a bus ride and a walk back to the trail near the Knockree Hostel. Here we headed out on a quiet forest road lined with beautiful old-growth trees. It eventually turned into boulder strewn path taking us by the tree-covered William Seat Peak (If you want to summit it’s easy, but there are no views, so we skipped it.)
Another beautiful day. More views of the iconic Great Sugar Loaf and of the sea. Farms, green fields, and stone walls. Ordinary but well-kept homes, manor houses, a golf course. The roads kept getting busier as the day went on and we soon came to our first views of Dublin.
Soon our 67-mile journey was complete. Mike and I took some celebratory photos at the wall marking the start of the Wicklow Way. A 40-minute bus ride took us to the center of Dublin. Our Wicklow Way trek was over, but we still had exploring the city and a post-trek Guinness to look forward to.
Day 0 – Tinahely
• Lodging: Murphy’s Hotel
• Food: At hotel, small grocery store
• Logistics: We took the train from Dublin to Rathdrum, and Wicklow Way Bus took us from Rathdrum to Tinahely.
A quiet but pleasant place to eat and sleep before heading out the next morning.
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| Tinahely |
Day 1 – Tinahely to Moyne (6 miles/9.6 KM)
- Lodging: Kyle Farmhouse B&B
- Food: Breakfast was included in the price, and a simple but hearty BBQ dinner could be purchased for €10. The hosts are willing to take farms guests to Tinahely for dinner with set departure and pick up times.
- Logistics: Easy. If you’re keen on hiking all of the Wicklow Way, you’ll need to make your way to Clonegal. Otherwise, you can take the alternate route from Tinahely (heading towards Mangan’s) all the way to the farmhouse.
From town, we started out on a cool morning that was perfect for walking. The landscape rose immediately, and we soon had splendid views of Tinahely, and our eyes were pleased with a landscape of rolling terrain and charming farms. Ballycumber Hill was the highest point of our walk, and the landscape was filled with ferns, mossy trees, and dense dark forests that looked like the kind of place a gnome or some other small, fabled creature would call home. Along this part of the trail, we got really close to some wind turbines, and it was cool to see them up close. Their arms spun in a steady mesmerizing arch and a few times the wind picked up and we could hear a faint whoosh as the blades whirled.
Cows, sheep, two deer, and a fox were our only company. The Kyle Farmhouse was a wonderful spot to call home for the night. Our host offered us tea and scones when we first arrived and before we could settle into a welcoming spot on the patio, it started to rain, so we moved inside to a fire and a cozy living room. We were the only guests at the farmhouse and were able to nap on the couch and chat with our hosts (“So, will the United States elect Mr. Trump?” was a big concern of theirs.) This was the most welcoming and tranquil place we stayed during our entire trip. Between our gracious hosts, the perfectly cool weather, and an environment different from home, our first day on the Wicklow Way was a delight.
Day 2–Moyne to Glenmalure (14 miles/22.5 KM)
- Lodging: Glenmalure Lodge. There are two small inns across the road.
- Food: At the lodge. Breakfast was included and dinner can be ordered off the menu.
- Logistics: It was easy to get back on the trail from the farmhouse, and we walked right to our lodging in Glenmalure.
Another cool and perfect day with only a few splashes of rain. This was the first of two 14-mile outings. With 2,400 feet/732 meters of elevation gain it felt like a “real” day. We started on quaint farm lanes passing lots of cows and sheep. The scenery was marred with several clearcuts, and some time was spent on dull logging roads, but it was still nice to be out getting exercise, reveling in the time off work, and exploring a new country. It was a quiet day and we only saw one hiker.
Day 3 – Glenmalure to Glendalough (9 miles/14.4 KM)
- Lodging: We stayed at the Glendalough Hostel. The Glendalough Hotel is down the road. If a socialist era Yugoslav hotel mated with a generic American national park hotel, the Glendalough Hotel would be the offspring. It’s a functional yet large and blocky building with muted earth tones, non-descript character, and a restaurant and bar area capable of serving a large throng of visitors. It had a strange vibe.
- Food: Hostel guests can use the kitchen and food is available at the restaurant in the Glendalough Hotel. (The food wasn’t amazing, but it exceeded our expectations.). A meagre breakfast could be purchased at the hostel, and a few food trucks near the hotel included a lifesaving coffee cart.
- Logistics: Easy. Both the starting and ending point are on the trail.
This was a short day but the best day of our walk. We headed out in the steadily falling mist. The paved road quickly turned into a forest road where we came across more logged areas. Despite this mess, the area offered stunning views into another valley where unlogged terrain rose steadily, and a long waterfall cascaded down. Occasional sun illuminated the hillside a stunning combination of green, rust, and gold. Up we went past more logged areas, through some bogs with boardwalks to keep our feet dry, and more dark dense forests like the ones we found on previous days. We shared the first part of the day with feral goats, deer, and sheep. At the divide above the Glendalough Valley we saw the first people of the day. From here, we looked towards the valley’s two fabled lakes. Rather than going towards them, we branched off the Wicklow Way and headed up the boardwalk-lined boggy slopes of the Miners’ Way.
At the top of the climb, we can to a stunning glacial valley featuring a landscape more like home - granite boulders, steep rock walls, a waterfall, a creek. The stony trail zig zagged down past mining ruins and interpretive signs. It is worth taking your time to read the history and check out the remnants.
The Miners’ Way soon flattened into a wide tree-lined forest that passed both lakes. Here we ran into many people including a trio of nuns in habits and hiking gear. From the parking lot we took a scenic boardwalk to the Glendalough Monastic City.
The Miners’ Way soon flattened into a wide tree-lined forest that passed both lakes. Here we ran into many people including a trio of nuns in habits and hiking gear. From the parking lot we took a scenic boardwalk to the Glendalough Monastic City.
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| Scenery along the Miners' Way |
The monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. Most of the buildings that survive today date from the 10th through 12th centuries. It is small, stunning site with a church, round tower, graveyard, and other old stone structures. The peaceful vibe was palpable, and it was easy to see why people were taken with it many centuries ago.
- Lodging: Lus Mór B&B A charming place. Mix of an eight-bed dorm (Where we stayed) and rooms. Nice common areas. Quiet.
- Food: A vegan breakfast was included, and eggs and meats could be purchased. Bag lunches were also available for purchase. The B&B offered a daily shuttle to Roundwood with a set departure and pick up time. Fortunately, our host made a reservation for the group before we left so we knew we had a space at the restaurant. It was quiet so I imagine the reservation wasn’t needed, but I’m sure it would be helpful during busy times.
- Logistics: The B&B was 1.1 miles/1.8KM off-route
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| Glendalough Monastic City |
After exploring the monastic city, we headed out. Another splendid day weather-wise despite some steady mist. Wide paths through the dark forest, some short stretches of logging roads, nice views of the countryside, quiet rural lanes. Sheep, stone walls, views to Lough Dam, a glimpse of the sea over by the resort town of Bray. A pleasant day. The inn was a nice peaceful place to rest for the night.
Day 5 – Pier Gates to Enniskerry (12 miles/19.3 KM included walking off-route to our lodging)
- Lodging: Enniskerry Inn in the charming village of Enniskerry. The Knockree Hostel is on route but is currently being remodeled.
- Food: Easy. A few restaurants, cafes, and a small grocery store in Enniskerry. We had dinner at Emilia’s Ristorante, an unassuming yet stylish and fantastic Italian restaurant, and breakfast and coffee at Poppies.
- Logistics: This was our hardest day as Enniskerry is 3.4miles/5.5 KM off route along a somewhat busy road. We contacted the inn about arranging a ride from the trail to town, but they didn’t respond to my email, and they hung up when Mike called. This dispelled the “I just had my innkeeper pick me up” myth which I heard repeatedly in the firsthand accounts I read about walking the Wicklow Way. Being determined not to trek the entire distance from the trail to town, we looked a solution and luckily found a bus (Bus 185 runs every 30 minutes) from the Enniskerry Golf Course to town, which knocked 1.8 miles/3 KM off the walk.
Morning greeted us with glorious sunshine as we ate breakfast in the serene living room of the B&B. In contrast to the tranquil vibe was the wind that constantly buffeted the building. Mike and I watched a fellow guest practicing tai chi on the lawn, seemingly unperturbed by the constant howling, and we hoped to channel his peaceful energy as we braced out selves for a blustery day.
Mike and I retraced out steps on the quiet country road back to the Wicklow Way. We soon headed into a lovely forest with two nice viewpoints to a lake, farmlands, and the sea. After the second viewpoint, we found ourselves in bog country. As we rose higher, the sky turned cloudy, the winds picked up, and we spent the next hour in constant wind. At times the gusts threatened to push us off the boardwalk into the bog. Luckily, we managed to stay upright and dry. As we approached Djouce Mountain, persistent roars continued so we decided to skip the summit, which would have been an easy jaunt off the main trail.Soon the landscape began to descend, and we skirted some beautiful sheep-filled hillsides – a quintessential Ireland landscape.
The winds persisted, and we huddled in hats and gloves next to a stone wall for lunch.
After our quick break we headed up another hill, through some forests, took in views to the sea, admired the aptly named Great Sugar Loaf and the Powerscourt waterfall – it was all beautiful countryside. Enniskerry was a nice place to spend the night.
Day 6 – Enniskerry to Dublin (14 miles/22.5 KM)
Lodging: There is endless lodging in Dublin.
Food: Endless food in Dublin, too.
Logistics: Once you’re back on the trail it’s an easy walk to Marley Park on the outskirts of the city. From here city buses run frequently.
Our last day began with a bus ride and a walk back to the trail near the Knockree Hostel. Here we headed out on a quiet forest road lined with beautiful old-growth trees. It eventually turned into boulder strewn path taking us by the tree-covered William Seat Peak (If you want to summit it’s easy, but there are no views, so we skipped it.) Another beautiful day. More views of the iconic Great Sugar Loaf and of the sea. Farms, green fields, and stone walls. Ordinary but well-kept homes, manor houses, a golf course. The roads kept getting busier as the day went on and we soon came to our first views of Dublin.
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| The Great Sugarloaf |
We saw our last sheep-dotted field before we had view of the spot where the River Liffey meets the Dublin Bay. Here, Mike and I were still traveling on pleasant forest roads with many trails heading off in numerous directions. It was nice to see a major city so close to nature and to see many people out hiking and biking.
As we got closer to Dublin, we left the forest behind and crossed under the M 50. It was busy but there was a wide sidewalk leading us to Marley Park.
Exercise equipment, runners, walkers, moms pushing strollers. Vast lawns, tall regal trees, the trickle of a small brook. Through some trees we could bagpipes and occasional wooing from a crowd, but we never saw them, so they weren’t gathered to applaud our triumphant arrival in Dublin.
A few more photos
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| Glendalough Monastic City |
If you made it this far and want to read more about walking, here are a few:
- All my backpacking posts: https://annvinciguerra.blogspot.com/search/label/Backpacking
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