Some thoughts on my recent trip to New Haven and a chance to make a few notes on the places I visited in case I decide to work this into a piece for a travel magazine.
Nostalgia is a powerful emotion. As I fumble through middle age, I wonder where my old self has gone, the Ann who saw the future as an endlessly fun and exciting place full of promise and possibility, who never uttered the words “I’m so busy,” and could go, go, go without rest.
In an effort to channel my younger self, Grateful Dead, Allman Brothers Band and other musical staples from my past waft from my iPod, I spend my time outside of work dressed in my 20-something uniform of flannel shirts, t-shirts and beaded necklaces on black cords, and I find myself dreaming of New Haven.
I have thought of the Elm City a lot over the years but hadn’t visited since 2013, and New Haven continues to creep into my mind. Making a trip there became a mission. Luckily, my college buddy Jen was interested in going, and I was able to tack on a weekend in New Haven during a trip back east to visit family.
In the weeks leading up to my trip, I’d flipped through an ancient copy of the book Enjoying New Haven: A Guide to the Area by Betsy Sledge. Tattered with dog-eared pages, it brings back a flood of names, places, and memories.
Jen and I had a small agenda for our weekend, which included old stomping grounds as well as new places to check out, but we were sure to keep our schedule loose allowing time for exploration.
There was an energy in the air the Saturday we were there. Yale’s Spring Fling music festival was taking place throughout the day and a Trey Anastasio concert was taking place that evening. Phish fans circulated around the city throughout the day and college students flitted about. People spilled off of balconies, girls ran around in skimpy shorts although the weather didn’t call for it, their enthusiasm and stoke apparent, their willingness to try contagious, and our spirits are buoyed.
Jen and I spent lots of time outside walking in parks, exploring neighborhoods, and popping in and out of stores downtown before cool weather drew us inside a local pub for happy hour. It was the epitome of a chill afternoon; hanging out with an old friend, listening to music, drinking a beer, and not thinking of responsibilities or rushing around. This was the carefree feeling I was hoping for with this trip, but rather than feel youthful I felt like me and I realized that is a great thing. My enthusiasm was more subdued, but I was still enjoying myself thoroughly. True contentment washed over me, and I couldn’t stop smiling.
Although trip didn’t magically transform me back to my youth, it was a great chance to recharge and contemplate the passing of time. During my flight back to Montana, I gave myself a pep talk and made a list of the things I can do to stay positive, many of these things lessons to be learned from my younger self.
The weekend was perfect.
While I don’t lament the loss of Demery’s, it’s the loss of originality here and on much of Broadway that bummed me out. Gone are the record stores (Cutler’s and Rhymes), the dives (Yankee Doodle), the original (Yale Co-op, which has been taken over by Barnes and Noble), and the independent (York Square Cinema). In are the chains, J Crew, Patagonia, an Apple store and more. These stores, part of a new project around New Haven called the Shops at Yale, give Broadway an anywhere USA feel.
For many, Broadway is the entry point to downtown New Haven. Perhaps city leaders thought the Broadway revitalization would take the edge off. Things change, and I am can accept that, but I was not pleased with how this area has transformed. Luckily, I discovered the rest of New Haven had not changed as dramatically and still maintained gritty charm.
Café 9 https://www.cafenine.com/, 250 State Street – Jen and I dropped in on the Jazz Jam, which takes place from 4-7 p.m. each Saturday. Musicians came and went seamlessly. A murmur of conversation filled the room, but people are still focused on the music as indicated by at tattering of appreciative claps at the right moments. The only people there younger than us came to play. It’s a casual place, which doesn’t take itself too serious despite the jazz, and it was a strong reminder I was no longer in Montana where the plinkiness of bluegrass dominates.
For me, Miya’s is the kind of meal I find myself dreaming about long after the last bite; the originality, the creativity, the presentation. Miya’s uses ingredients you don’t expect in sushi (Falafel, eggplant, Connecticut blackfish, invasive mustard green just to name a few) yet the light healthiness and blending of flavors I associate with sushi are all still there.
Bar, https://www.barnightclub.com/ 254 Crown Street - Bar is a brewery, club and pizza place managing to do it all with aplomb. Floor to ceiling windows, brick walls, and exposed ducts and pipes give Bar an urban, hip vibe without being full of itself. This comfortable, welcoming setting has a timeless modernity that hasn’t changed since they opened in the early 1990s. They make no pretenses with the atmosphere or presentation of the food, and I immediately remembered why I was so fond of Bar when it opened.
Jen convinced me to put myself outside of my comfort zone by trying their specialty, the mashed potato pizza with bacon, served white. The mashed potatoes are thinly distributed and don’t spurt off of the sides of the pizza or make it soggy. The crust is quintessential New Haven, a perfectly thin yet slightly chewy combo. The blob-like pie was served on a large rectangle kitchen tray placed at the table on an ordinary medal rack that looks like a tall luggage rack.
Ordinary https://ordinarynewhaven.com/ 990 Chapel Street – Formerly called Richter’s, this is one of my favorites from the past. The dark paneling, fireplace and stuffed moose head remain but some of the memorabilia on the walls is gone, which I’m sure folks lament.
Rudy’s – Rudy’s was my favorite dive bar from my college days. It had been there since 1934 and I thought it would be there forever, but they’ve moved, and I don't care for its new reincarnation. I’m not the only one lamenting the move as you’ll read in the comments section of this article: https://www.newhavenindependent.org/index.php/archives/entry/after_76_years_rudys_moves/
~
A follow up to this piece from a few years ago. http://annvinciguerra.blogspot.com/2016/07/new-haven-reflections.html
Middle Age Musings in New Haven
Nostalgia is a powerful emotion. As I fumble through middle age, I wonder where my old self has gone, the Ann who saw the future as an endlessly fun and exciting place full of promise and possibility, who never uttered the words “I’m so busy,” and could go, go, go without rest.In an effort to channel my younger self, Grateful Dead, Allman Brothers Band and other musical staples from my past waft from my iPod, I spend my time outside of work dressed in my 20-something uniform of flannel shirts, t-shirts and beaded necklaces on black cords, and I find myself dreaming of New Haven.
New Haven is where I spent my time as undergraduate at Southern Connecticut State University and the years that followed so it will always hold fond memories for me. Over the past several months the desire to visit had grown strong. It’s almost as if my subconscious was thinking that if could just spend a bit of time there, I could relight the spark that gets harder to maintain as we go through life.
I have thought of the Elm City a lot over the years but hadn’t visited since 2013, and New Haven continues to creep into my mind. Making a trip there became a mission. Luckily, my college buddy Jen was interested in going, and I was able to tack on a weekend in New Haven during a trip back east to visit family.
In the weeks leading up to my trip, I’d flipped through an ancient copy of the book Enjoying New Haven: A Guide to the Area by Betsy Sledge. Tattered with dog-eared pages, it brings back a flood of names, places, and memories.
Jen and I had a small agenda for our weekend, which included old stomping grounds as well as new places to check out, but we were sure to keep our schedule loose allowing time for exploration.
Jen and I spent lots of time outside walking in parks, exploring neighborhoods, and popping in and out of stores downtown before cool weather drew us inside a local pub for happy hour. It was the epitome of a chill afternoon; hanging out with an old friend, listening to music, drinking a beer, and not thinking of responsibilities or rushing around. This was the carefree feeling I was hoping for with this trip, but rather than feel youthful I felt like me and I realized that is a great thing. My enthusiasm was more subdued, but I was still enjoying myself thoroughly. True contentment washed over me, and I couldn’t stop smiling.
Although trip didn’t magically transform me back to my youth, it was a great chance to recharge and contemplate the passing of time. During my flight back to Montana, I gave myself a pep talk and made a list of the things I can do to stay positive, many of these things lessons to be learned from my younger self.
· Find something to be stoked about each day.· Rest when I need to, don’t jam it all in if I’m not feeling up for it. No one is keeping track.· Cherish time on my hands when I can get it. Don’t stress out about feeling busy all of the time. Life won't always be this way.· Appreciate good friends and family, and the meaningful places in my life.· Most importantly, go easy on myself.
The weekend was perfect.
If You Go…
Whether you go to New Haven to revisit the past or explore it for the first time, there is so much to explore. At almost 130,000 people New Haven is big enough be urban and exciting but small and manageable enough to tackle on foot and get a feel for the city in a short visit. There are real people and decades of history behind so many of these establishments and New Haven in general.Broadway
It was kind of surreal to find a Patagonia store in the place once home to Demery’s, a popular dance club in the 1980s and 1990s. Once filled with college students, bumpin’ tunes, cheap pitchers of beer and late-night slices of pizza, the space was almost empty and eerily quiet. Even though a Patagonia store is more my kind of place than Demery’s, it was a tad depressing to find this location, once bursting with energy, feeling staid and a bit dull.While I don’t lament the loss of Demery’s, it’s the loss of originality here and on much of Broadway that bummed me out. Gone are the record stores (Cutler’s and Rhymes), the dives (Yankee Doodle), the original (Yale Co-op, which has been taken over by Barnes and Noble), and the independent (York Square Cinema). In are the chains, J Crew, Patagonia, an Apple store and more. These stores, part of a new project around New Haven called the Shops at Yale, give Broadway an anywhere USA feel.
For many, Broadway is the entry point to downtown New Haven. Perhaps city leaders thought the Broadway revitalization would take the edge off. Things change, and I am can accept that, but I was not pleased with how this area has transformed. Luckily, I discovered the rest of New Haven had not changed as dramatically and still maintained gritty charm.
Coffee Break
Koffee? https://www.koffeefamily.com/ – 104 Audubon Street and the Book Trader Café http://www.booktradercafe.net/ 1140 Chapel Street – are two that I visit, and I like both immensely. I’m intrigued by the Audubon area, which Jen tells me is an up-and-coming arts neighborhood. The Book Trader is a bookstore, in this case used, coffee shop combo which I have a fondness for.Lunch
Louis' Lunch https://louislunch.com/ – 261 Crown Street – The squat red building sits there as it has for decades. Four generations of the Lassen family have been serving burgers to New Haven since 1895, reportedly the first in the United States. Up until this trip, neither Jen, a lifelong Connecticut resident, nor I had been there.
Louis’ is a place where you can’t have it your way. They serve their hamburgers medium rare on toasted white bread with a schmear of processed cheese, a slice of tomato and a sliver of onion. Period. Requesting ketchup is asking for ridicule by the surly staff.
Line moved quickly, and Jen and I were able to score one of the small booths, a two-seater with carved tables, offering a good view of the counter and watched as staff prepare burgers in vertical metal broilers with wire holders. Foxon Park birch beer and Deep River chips, both Nutmeg State brands, rounded out our meal. It meets up to our expectations in both the food and the atmosphere.
Louis’ is a place where you can’t have it your way. They serve their hamburgers medium rare on toasted white bread with a schmear of processed cheese, a slice of tomato and a sliver of onion. Period. Requesting ketchup is asking for ridicule by the surly staff.
Line moved quickly, and Jen and I were able to score one of the small booths, a two-seater with carved tables, offering a good view of the counter and watched as staff prepare burgers in vertical metal broilers with wire holders. Foxon Park birch beer and Deep River chips, both Nutmeg State brands, rounded out our meal. It meets up to our expectations in both the food and the atmosphere.
Art & Culture
Yale Art Gallery –https://artgallery.yale.edu/, 1111 Chapel Street – A place to see Picasso, Warhol, van Gogh, Degas, Calder and many others for free. Matthew Barney’s interdisciplinary and multi-media exhibit Redoubt https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/21/arts/design/matthew-barney-review-yale-university.html was on display. It included engravings in copper, a series of electroplated copper reliefs, and large-scale sculptures made from the trunks of burned trees harvested from Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains. It also included full-length film of the same name. The Yale Art Gallery also has a courtyard with a small sculpture garden including a Calder.Café 9 https://www.cafenine.com/, 250 State Street – Jen and I dropped in on the Jazz Jam, which takes place from 4-7 p.m. each Saturday. Musicians came and went seamlessly. A murmur of conversation filled the room, but people are still focused on the music as indicated by at tattering of appreciative claps at the right moments. The only people there younger than us came to play. It’s a casual place, which doesn’t take itself too serious despite the jazz, and it was a strong reminder I was no longer in Montana where the plinkiness of bluegrass dominates.
Dinner
Miya’s Sushi http://www.miyassushi.com/ 68 Howe Street – Credited with being the first sustainable sushi restaurant anywhere, Miya’s is a small place with a pleasant low-key vibe. How can one describe Miya’s without falling into a series of clichés? Writing about creative flourishes and a paradigm changing approaching to sushi will sound trite.For me, Miya’s is the kind of meal I find myself dreaming about long after the last bite; the originality, the creativity, the presentation. Miya’s uses ingredients you don’t expect in sushi (Falafel, eggplant, Connecticut blackfish, invasive mustard green just to name a few) yet the light healthiness and blending of flavors I associate with sushi are all still there.
Bar, https://www.barnightclub.com/ 254 Crown Street - Bar is a brewery, club and pizza place managing to do it all with aplomb. Floor to ceiling windows, brick walls, and exposed ducts and pipes give Bar an urban, hip vibe without being full of itself. This comfortable, welcoming setting has a timeless modernity that hasn’t changed since they opened in the early 1990s. They make no pretenses with the atmosphere or presentation of the food, and I immediately remembered why I was so fond of Bar when it opened.
Jen convinced me to put myself outside of my comfort zone by trying their specialty, the mashed potato pizza with bacon, served white. The mashed potatoes are thinly distributed and don’t spurt off of the sides of the pizza or make it soggy. The crust is quintessential New Haven, a perfectly thin yet slightly chewy combo. The blob-like pie was served on a large rectangle kitchen tray placed at the table on an ordinary medal rack that looks like a tall luggage rack.
Libations
Anchor Spa http://www.anchorspa.com/ 272 Collect Street– Although I knew the Anchor to be a New Haven institution, I only went a few times back in the day. It’s quiet the night, which suits our mood, and is why we chose it over Elm City Social, which is next door. Pressed tin ceiling, brick walls, leather green banquettes and wooden shelves filled with knick-knacks give it an ambiance that makes ordering a cocktail a must.
Ordinary https://ordinarynewhaven.com/ 990 Chapel Street – Formerly called Richter’s, this is one of my favorites from the past. The dark paneling, fireplace and stuffed moose head remain but some of the memorabilia on the walls is gone, which I’m sure folks lament.
Rudy’s – Rudy’s was my favorite dive bar from my college days. It had been there since 1934 and I thought it would be there forever, but they’ve moved, and I don't care for its new reincarnation. I’m not the only one lamenting the move as you’ll read in the comments section of this article: https://www.newhavenindependent.org/index.php/archives/entry/after_76_years_rudys_moves/
Lodging
Jen and I stayed in the Willis Bristol House located on Chapel Street, in the Wooster Square neighborhood. https://www.vrbo.com/1543879?adultsCount=3 Built in 1845, the charming pink house features an Italianate block design with Indian Islamic details. Accommodations were simple but bright and comfortable. It’s a short walk to the green and downtown but in a quiet neighborhood. ~
Nice story. Makes me think of my Yale days back in the late 70s.
ReplyDeleteThanks for checking out my blog!
ReplyDeleteThere's also a Lululemon going on in Broadway so you know its ruined. They're the ultimate in overpriced poseur clothing.
ReplyDelete