Rather than plopping a bunch of photos on social media, I thought I'd write about my most recent trip to Europe here. I challenged myself to using only ten photos to tell the story. Please read to the bottom as I need your insight on spritzes, lederhosen, and dirndls. You can leave your thoughts in the comments section of this post. (No login required.)
It was a two-part trip so there will be another post.
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| Schloss Hellbrunn, Salzburg Summer Palace |
The next morning it was off to Salzburg, a small city of medieval squares, baroque domes and spires, a hilltop fortress, and a mountainous backdrop. We spent two nights there and found time to venture out of the city to explore the early 17th century summer palace, Schloss Hellbrunn, and take the cable car up the still snowy 1,853 meter peak Untersburg on the German border.
Travel Hint: The Salzburg Card is a great deal. It will get you into the city museums and attractions, is good on the cable car, and can be used on the bus to the summer palace and other locations. It will be easy to get your money's worth.
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| Melk, Austria |
Visitors come to Melk to visit the grand Benedictine abby Stift Melk with an impressive marble room, stately library, grand church, and hilltop location looming over the small town. After visiting the abbey, we strolled the cobblestone passageways and had dinner on the square.
See the observations section below to find out more thoughts on Salzburg and Melk.
Our first stop and the day's highlight was the Burgruine Aggstein, a 12th-century castle perched atop a rocky outcropping 950 feet above the river. The extensive ruins featured hidden stairways, courtyards, towers, a dungeon, and more. As with many old castles, it was easy to marvel at how hard it must have been to build all those centuries ago, and the visit left a lot to the imagination. The cool, grey, drizzly weather added to the atmosphere.
Another photo of the castle, this time with the Danube in the background.
We finished the walk at the Danube and caught a ferry across the river to Spitz. This ancient barge-like contraption had room for about three small cars and standing room for a smattering of folks. The crossing took about ten minutes and the ferry ran frequently.Dürnstein - From Spitz, we took a bus to Dürnstein. With narrow passageways, a striking powder blue baroque church, old buildings, and a backdrop of terraced hillsides, this small town oozed charm. Grey skies, drizzle, and low-slung clouds added to the ambiance, and I was instantly smitten.
It was off-season and quiet when we were in Dürnstein. Very few people were out, and I love the fact that I was able to capture photos of these passageways with no people in them. I imagine it's hard to find them empty during high tourist season.
There were two restaurants open so we chose the Altes Presshaus (Old press house) for dinner. The house was built in 1713 and the wine press operated there from 1752 until 2003. The old building has been preserved and parts of the press fill a corner of the dining room.
The restaurant makes its own wine and offers homemade goulash, schnitzel, strudel, and other hearty Austrian fare perfect for a cool damp evening. It wasn't full, and we joined several tables of lively locals for the evening. The service was attentive but low-key, and the owner, aided by one of the young waitstaff who translated, stopped by to chat with us. It felt like an "authentic" place for a meal - a nice night out.
Dürnstein to Krems - The next morning, we set off to walk from Dürnstein to Krems, stage one of the Wachau trail. It was another delightful day with forested pathways, stone walls, terraced hillsides, benches overlooking the Wachau Valley, and easy to follow trails. Our trek featured more vineyards, river views, distant castles (Crumbling and well-maintained), several ups and downs, a few steep climbs, and a surprisingly long climb after the town of Stein before making the final descent into Krems. Once in Krems, we escaped the drizzle by lounging under an umbrellaed table and enjoying a coffee before catching the train to Vienna.Vienna - Mike and I spent a night in Vienna. The next morning Mike headed to Slovenia, and I headed to Montenegro to meet up with my college buddy Jen. Mike and I met up in Vienna ten days later and spent two nights there before heading home.
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| Belvedere, Vienna |
During this visit, we stayed at Wombat's. Since its founding in Vienna in 1999 and its expansion into Budapest, Munich, and London, Wombat's has developed a well-deserved reputation as a great place to stay. Mike and I reserved two bunk beds in a four-bed room with its own bathroom, and the entire place was clean, organized, and lively. Although Wombat's has its own bar and a welcoming lobby with great lounging areas, this is not a party hostel, and we were pleased to find several people in our age-group staying there.
Travel hint: If you're looking to find an affordable place to stay while traveling, I encourage you to check out Wombat's (or any other hostel). Just take a look at a few online reviews before booking and avoid the ones where reviewers rave about the party scene.
We stayed at the Wombat's location (They have two hostels in Vienna) near the Naschmarkt, which was a great discovery. Naschmarkt began as a farmers market in the 16th century and is now filled with over 100 places to eat, drink, and buy produce. The area stretches for almost a mile and holds a flea market on Saturdays. Here you'll find a mix of indoor and outdoor seating, many types of cuisine, and great people watching. It was handy to have this treasure right across from our lodging. I highly recommend checking out the Naschmarkt if you make it to Vienna.
While in Vienna, we also visited the grounds and art museum at baroque palace Belvedere, strolled around that part of the city, and visited with my former colleague, Kenning, who is now working at Central European University Library. As for culinary delights, Kenning took us to classic beer hall, and Mike and I stopped in for coffee and cake at Cafe Sperl, a traditional Viennese cafe complete with chandeliers, comfy yet slightly tattered booths, well-dressed waiters, and an old-world charm.
Mike arrived in Vienna two nights before I did so he had more chances to explore, and I was jealous as there was so much of Vienna I wanted to revisit or see for the first time. During our last night in Vienna (Also the last night of our trip), as we enjoyed cocktails on the rooftop terrace at Kenning's apartment, I looked across the Vienna skyline to the rolling hills outside the city, envisioning more days spent exploring Vienna, Austria, and beyond. I was already starting to plan my next trip.
A few observations
- Young women in Germany and Austria were seen wearing dirndls and young men donned lederhosen shorts with suspenders. We first noticed this at a fair taking place in a city park in Munich - we thought maybe they were fair employees wearing a uniform but we continued to notice more young people in lederhosen and dirndls throughout Munich and Austria. Hmmm....maybe this is a new trend? I don't recall seeing these outfits in previous trips to Germany or Austria. If you have any insight, please share in the comments section of this post.
- The spritz has become a very popular drink - we noticed them everywhere. These brightly colored concoctions, served in their own elegant yet slightly bulbous wine glasses, are the type of thing I roll my eyes at when in a cynical mood. One evening I wanted to avoid the heaviness of beer, so I tried the Hugo spritz. Although I felt a touch silly ordering it, I was surprised at how much I enjoyed it. I was also surprised to find spritzes named Hugo in subsequent places we traveled. Wow, who knew spritzes were that popular and came in named varieties? Maybe it's just a trend in Europe? Maybe they're popular in the U.S. too but I never noticed? Any insight? I'm curious to see how long it takes me to find a spritz on a menu in Bozeman.
- In 2000, I was on a train that passed through Salzburg. This small city along the Salzach River, with its old fortress sitting above the city and the rocky hillsides tumbling down to town, caught my eye. I had long heard of Salzburg and knew it was a popular tourist destination, but sfter seeing how charming it was from the train, I concluded that it must be a magical place to visit. It took me over two decades to make it there, and I was excited.
A couple we spoke with on the train from Munich to Salzburg raved about it, and my anticipation soared. While I thoroughly enjoyed my time there, I was not dazzled. Next we moved on to the much-hyped Melk, but I had the same response. There is no doubt that both Salzburg and Melk are worth visiting. Would I return? Certainly. But these weren't places that instantly grabbed me, and I didn't find myself longing to spend spend more time in either. I did not engage in a travel-induced fantasy of living there for a stretch.
A ton of thoughts ran through my mind. Am I the only one who is not gaga for Salzburg and Melk? Am I getting grumpy and cynical as I move through middle age? Does anything wow me any more? Is my youthful enthusiasm gone forever? Luckily, I was seduced by our next stop, Dürnstein so I know can still muster stoke for new places and first-time experiences, even if my enthusiasm levels are more low-key than in my younger years. Traveling is a great way to keep youthful energy and a sense of discovery alive.
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Read more about traveling - http://annvinciguerra.blogspot.com/search/label/Wanderlust
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